I do have a degree in Audio and Music technology and although I haven't worked in repairs before other than simple repairs on PA equipment and hearing aids I have successfully fixed simpler things like TVs recaping its power supply , PA speakers wired broken PCB tracks etc.
Hopefully, even if I don't manage to fix this, this thread will serve as a knowledge base to save time for other people attempting repairs on As. If I had a copy of the schematics this would have been very straightforward but without it I have to use what i know to find out what i don't know. So, obviously on the input side on the right of the 1st pic we have the power inputs on the top and the audio ins on the bottom.
The presence of the TL on the audio input side is a good indication that it is part of the active crossover. The fact that it is right next to the DIP switch kinda strengthens that indication because its use is for setting the roll-off and tilt slope of the crossover filters. Is there a way to identify the SMD components that aren't marked? So far my assumption is that the more orangish ones are ceramic caps and a quick search on Mouser verified they look like that but how could I find out the values?
On a different note, there is a line of holes spaced for a header at the bottom of the first picture on the initial post. I'm going to look into this and trace the tracks to figure out its pinout. Hello guys. I hadn't worked on the speaker for the last few days because of a couple of other projects that came up. Today I thought I'd have another go and spent a couple of hours looking around and probing things with my multimeter. By the way I did install the header pins like I said in the previous post.
You can find the pinout on the attached photo. It did and to my surprise it has been working perfectly ever since. Even though I have done nothing to it other than probe it with and take pictures, it's been playing fine for the last hours. Panning sounds left and right, they sound the same no bass missing so I'm completely confused in the happiest way possible.
I'm going to keep checking on it because I'm pretty sure speakers don't just fix themselves and if it keeps working fine I'm going to conclude that some connector had gone loose. Admittedly they were all in really good condition and didn't feel loose at all but I can't think of anything else. Oh, and enginefire, in case you read this, you might have been right when you said 'things just get hot sometimes'.
The TL might be ok regardless of the signs of smoke next to it. There's two more on the board and every measurement I did on it tested the same as the other two. My Studio. Just my. The close proximity of it to the input jack suggests its the input IC. And you said the highs work but not the lows so I doubt the input IC is bad.
Anyone who's done enough has their own soldering technique and the temps and tips will fit that. Last edited by Lumbergh; 23rd December at PM.. I don't see any damage to any component in any of those pictures, nor do I see that any sensible troubleshooting was performed at all. It's better you don't get anywhere near that board with your soldering iron to touch up anything - leave it alone! Have you tested the LF driver? Have you applied a test signal to the board and measured the outputs to each driver?
Have you talked to Genelec? Looking forward but perhaps they don't want you to see a schematic. I messed up the upload last time. Hope this one worked. Home Audio: Two-Way Systems. G One A Active Speaker The Genelec G One active speaker is very compact and unobtrusive active speaker which will surprise many with its unbelievable performance and beautiful design.
G One A was in production between and It was replaced by the G One B. Home Audio: Three-Way Systems. Home Audio: Subwoofers. F One A Active Subwoofer. F Two A Active Subwoofer. AV Installation: Series. Also no XLR since you mentioned that.
Last edited: Nov 24, Can't you try to move or EQ it? Bear said:. I've often read that Rythmik subs work well but I don't think inadequate performance from the 8s is the cause of the problem. The measured in-room response red curve in previous post corresponds rather well to the simulated room response post Definitely just needed some eq. Mentioned the L12 as it plays full range and doesn't roll off in the 30's. I measured again more carefully from 5 different positions centered around my typical seated position at my desk.
The results for each were not much different in terms of the 20 to Hz range. I'm on my third EQ spec at the moment that uses three peaking filters and looks like the image below. I'm not pleased that it takes over 10 dB EQ. That seems like a lot. Subjectively, I enjoy playing my instruments through it. The bottom octave of guitar is especially satisfying. With the EQ the bass guitar now sounds fine. The synth can move the room. Listening to recordings is less convincing.
The bass can be distracting and sometimes even annoying and I'm not sure why. I suspect it's a combination of two things. I've been listening to the A without a sub at this desk for, idk, maybe 15years.
The sub is behind the left sat and all the speakers are too close to me. Especially so since I got a 32" display. The tweeters are separated by 34" and each is 33" away from my respective ear. When I push my chair away from the desk and lean back the impression is much better and enjoyable. I'm not sure what to do. Fixing this is going to take reorganizing the room a bit. Moving desk away from the wall would allow pusing the display and monitors about a foot away.
But I'll need new display mounts. Alternatively, get rid of the sub altogether and listen to recordings the way I did since forever without the bottom octave and get a Headrush FRFR to play my instruments through. Last edited: Nov 29, Quick PS on my test tone first: I think my hearing was distorting before the speakers on that one. There's got to be a reason why I'm listening about 10 dB quieter than most people.
It does sound like they're getting a bit uncomfortable about 10 dB higher than previously thought though There has got to be a reason why I thought these Os were such a revelation in terms of distortion after all! I removed the KRK 8s and will send it back.
I just couldn't get used to the lack of integration of the sound. When playing guitar or bass or listening to I was getting distracting spacial effects depending on the notes played and the instrument tone. I think that if I could locate the sub freely then I could likely make it work for me but the workspace just doesn't allow much freedom.
At that price I can accept worse build quality and repairability. Maybe better to wait and save up for something like the JBL P, which according to Amir's measurements has enough bass extension for me. Not much different from the P.
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